Road trip adventure Maputo Special Reserve Mozambique
Santa Maria Peninsula – Maputo - Mozambique
Overland adventure to Maputo Special Reserve
A road trip to a barefoot beach getaway at Nhonguane Lodge
Five kilometres after the Lebombo border control (also known as Ressano Garcia or Komatipoort border) into Mozambique we reached our overnight accommodation. Dusk had quickly turned into darkness. The gate was closed, there was no sign of life and there were no visible lights shining. We thought we had arrived at the wrong place, but the sign confirmed we were at the right place - Casa do Campo.
Driving after dark can be hazardous in Mozambique as in many other African countries. We were not prepared to go further although it was only another eighty kilometres to Maputo. Negotiating the busy roads of the most populous city and capital of Mozambique in the dark was not an option for us. Furthermore we knew of no other accommodation close by.
We had visions of sleeping in our car outside the gate but then we saw a weak flashlight beam swaying towards us. We assumed the Mozambican was a guard at the gate and told him we had a booking but he was reluctant to let us in which we thought was strange. Eventually he relented and let us drive onto the property.
Caso do Campo provided overnight accommodation for people travelling further north into Mozambique. It had some historical significance because we had heard it was used as a bomb shelter during the Mozambican civil war.
During previous visits into Mozambique we often drove past and were keen to use it as an overnight stop just for fun. Little did we know.
I had phoned numerous times first to book and then to confirm our accommodation and their answer was usually very relaxed. Yes, sure, we could just arrive and pay cash, and yes, they had a restaurant. No paperwork, no emails as confirmations. This was not unusual many years ago in Mozambique. However my sixth sense was restless but I did not lose sleep over it.
We introduced ourselves to the manager, a South African and he remembered my phone call but had a sheepish look on his face. He said they had a bit of a problem. They were busy renovating and there were no rooms available for us, because they had moved the furniture out.
He could not turn us away, in typical African hospitality, so offered us a couple of beds in one of the dormitory rooms, if we had no objection. No five-star accommodation, not that we were expecting that. I am sure someone made our beds in a rush before they showed us our dormitory.
‘We presume your restaurant is not open either,’ we asked. Our assumption was correct. The staff and builders had finished their dinner but there was still some left in the pot, if we were prepared to eat it. Naturally being adventurous, we did not mind, as long as we did not go to bed hungry.
We were given Matapa a tasty traditional dish of cassava leaves, which is similar to spinach, stewed with ground peanuts, garlic and coconut milk. There was also some fish which we were advised to leave if we weren’t keen on picking through more bones than meat. There was also delicious coconut rice. This meal is hardly ever found on menus at tourist restaurants and I was quite pleased to taste it.
The following morning after having some of our own muesli and rusks for breakfast we continued to Santa Maria peninsula. The drive would take us at least five hours, but it is always good to allow extra travel time. Although our destination was almost directly opposite Maputo, the only way to get there was by boat, or a long U-shaped route going south then back north, to miss the bay of Maputo as well as much of the wetland.
Komati to Boane
We turned south halfway between Ressano Garcia and Maputo to Boane. We were impressed that the road to Boane was in a good condition but soon that changed. The usual driving on the shoulder of the road to avoid potholes, or sometimes no tar (asphalt).
There were signs of heavy rains and as we approached one of the bridges we saw definite evidence of flooding and debris over the bridge. We thought it would be wise to avoid using it to cross the river.
Not knowing the area we relied on our GPS to guide us to a different route, not that we had many options. We used the maps on Tracks4Africa, community driven data and information for traveling through remote areas in Africa. The other alternative would be to drive through Swaziland (Eswatini). Who knows what time we would have reached our destination then.
We found a smaller bridge on the map and took our chances to see if it would be passable. It was low and somewhat muddy and wet but looked safe enough to cross. We carried on to Bela Vista and then towards the gate into Maputo Special Reserve.
I had read that along this section of road many people traveling on this road had seen a man with a rifle leap out of nowhere from the bushes in front of approaching vehicles. Telling Paul about this, my words weren’t even cold when the same thing happened to us. We nearly jumped out of our skins.
I could not remember any other details about him. What chance did we have against a man with a gun? We were expecting the worst. He looked at us for a couple of moments then waved us on. He was obviously one of the security stops along the route. If he had a uniform on, it certainly did not look much like one. For a moment there though, we had heart palpitations.
Maputo Special Reserve
The Peace Park of Maputo Special Reserve is of great importance for conservation and has boundless potential to become a popular beach and safari getaway. Over the years a few tourists have ventured into the area, but largely it was remote and not always easily accessible. Our trip was about 2012 and they had not started much building or renovations yet. We entered at the old gate and paid an admittance fee for ourselves as well as our vehicle.
From the gate to Santa Maria would take us at least three and a half hours although the distance is only about eighty kilometres. We deflated our tyres for the sand road and proceeded towards Santa Maria peninsula. The area is largely wetland and is only accessible to 4x4 vehicles.
Nhonguane Lodge where we were heading is located on the eastern side of the Bay of Maputo but on the western side of the peninsula. It is about one kilometre from the channel mouth known as Hell’s Gate which divides the peninsula from Inhaca Island. Santa Maria, the local village is about three kilometres south of the lodge.
We had heard that although not often seen, elephants were known to charge approaching vehicles. Because of the dense vegetation in places we were rather cautious. It is not so easy to reverse on a narrow sand road in a hurry.
The roads are also quite tricky and confusing if you don’t know where you are going and you could end up in the south of the reserve rather than the north, with a whole lot of hours between the two.
Because it is a wetland, you can get stuck in some areas that look dry. Not being a busy area you could wait for a while for someone to rescue you. You do not want to wander far from your vehicle either because there are crocodiles or other wild animals. We managed to see hippopotamuses in one of the lakes.
That little dark dot in the water is a hippo!
Fortunately we managed to get through the wettest section without getting sucked in by the quagmire. Although we were continuously looking out for elephants, we never saw any signs of these mammals, except on our way back.
I gave Paul a break from driving for a while and went through small tunnels of vegetation that added a few character marks on the body paint of our car. This was a common occurrence on our adventurous trips.
At one stage I stopped our vehicle for Paul to get out. His fishing rods were tied down on the roof and he had to push them down and hold on to them so they would not get caught in the branches while I edged forwards. The sand was deep and his foot slipped on the thick camber of soft sand into the path of the front wheel. I promptly drove over his foot. Ouch! Luckily the sand and the tyres were soft and I did not hurt him… too badly. How was I to know his foot was there?
On another occasion going through equally dense bushes a goat leapt out into the road in front of me. We weren’t going very fast but I did not have time to slam on the brakes. It is not a good idea in soft sand anyway because you then have mounds in front of your wheels which you would potentially have to dig away.
Thankfully goats always seem to have a knack of coming out alive on the other side. He looked unscathed and he continued on his path of self-destruction. Eventually after some long and tedious bits we reached our destination.
Hot tips for driving through the Reserve
If there are still narrow tunnels of vegetation, it would not be advisable to tow a boat. Smaller trailers or jet skis could possibly fit through.
Usual paraphernalia for off road trips will be handy:
Compressor to pump tyres and a tyre pressure gauge
Spade for digging if you get stuck
Recovery gear such as high lift jacks, shackles and straps
Gloves to protect your hands
A hat if you have to spend hours in the sun while recovering your vehicle.
First aid kit, sunscreen and insect repellent
An old towel or cloth for wiping hands
Enough water to drink and be able to wash your hands
Snacks to keep you going because there are no restaurants along the way
Nhonguane Lodge on the Santa Maria Peninsula
Also known as Ponta Torres, Nhonguane Lodge is surrounded by a nature and marine reserve. Apart from crossing the channel known as Hell’s Gate by boat to Inhaca Island or taking a one-hour boat ride to Maputo when the tide is right, you can go no further so you are literally at land’s end.
Situated at mangrove swamps Nhonguane Lodge is a perfect remote barefoot getaway. We stayed in a cottage with one bedroom, ideal for a couple. The kitchen was fully equipped. It is self-catering, so we brought our own food.
Beach bar
We spent our days walking, swimming, fishing and exploring. It is a beautiful isolated location and not easily accessible. Although there are beautiful beaches, you have to walk far to get to them. The area in front of Nhonguane Lodge is very much tidal, with shallow sections not deep enough for swimming.
Numerous times we walked towards the mouth of the channel known as Hell’s Gate which looks tame when you approach it but strong currents flow between bay and ocean. It is a fisherman’s paradise, if you know what you are doing.
We were hoping for freshly caught fish by Paul from Hell’s Gate where we traipsed to on a daily excursion, carrying all the necessary equipment with some refreshments after the hot walk. Not a single bite.
I will admit he had to cast very far but I think he had some fun except when a professional fisherman asked him to move from his regular spot so he could show him how it was done.
Eventually we had to rely on the local fishermen to sell us some fish and seafood such as prawns and mud crabs to supplement our provisions.
Mozambican lady carrying the catch of the day
We wanted to snorkel as well but had to watch the tide or we would end up far out at sea. We drifted with it as it came into the bay. We saw a few beautiful fish, but certainly no big ones that were worthy of a meal.
Jetty at Santa Maria Village - off-loading produce from the dhow
Santa Maria market
Santa Maria
The village of Santa Maria is a small authentic rural town close to the tip of the peninsula. We hardly saw any tourists. The tiny village rests behind the mangrove swamps and has a jetty for boats coming from Maputo. Maputo Bay largely consists of channels in this area and is tide reliant. There are some provisions available from the town, but don’t expect to have a wide variety of your usual supermarket products.
Inhaca Island
Quite a well-known piece of land, Inhaca Island has a small village of the same name. Many of the cruise ships from Durban going north stop close to the island, weather permitting, for tourists to enjoy. Apparently there are some curio shops.
We snorkelled at Inhaca island at the marine reserve one day which was more interesting, but the visibility was poor on that day. The island is a quick boat ride across the channel.
Would we go back to Santa Maria? It is a delightful area and we loved our time there but the long drive can be somewhat tedious.
A few years later we ventured on a day trip to Milibangalala, one that had been on our bucket list for years.
Inhaca Island across the channel
Hot tip for Mozambique
It is always a good idea to take malaria prophylaxis as well as insect repellent.
Click on image and Pin for later
Some activities to do in the area around Santa Maria and Inhaca Island:
KAYAKING
BIRDING
SCUBA DIVING AT THE CORAL GARDENS AND HOUSE REEFS AT INHACA ISLAND
SNORKEL AT THE CORAL GARDENS AND HOUSE REEFS AT INHACA ISLAND
DEEP SEA FISHING AND SHORE FISHING
SAFARI AND 4X4 DRIVING THROUGH THE ELEPHANT RESERVE
SAILING IN A TRADITIONAL DHOW IN THE BAY OF MAPUTO
DUNE BOARDING AND KITE SURFING
WHALE WATCHING MIGRATORY WHALES BETWEEN SEPTEMBER AND OCTOBER
Accommodation near Santa Maria
Accommodation ranges from basic to luxury, although not in large quantities. Many are self-catering and there are limited supplies at Santa Maria village as everything is brought in by boat. In some cases you need to bring your own bath and swimming towels. Take note of each website for further information.
Nhonguane Lodge – Beach lodge
Machangulo Beach Lodge – luxury beach lodge
Nhoxani Beach Lodge – private lodge
Camp Carlos – budget friendly lodge
Other lodges may have opened since we were there.
Where is Nhonguane Lodge on the Santa Maria Peninsula?
Useful information
There is a new tarred road running from Maputo to Kosi Bay border and Ponta do Ouro. Africa’s longest suspension bridge stretching from Catembe to Maputo is also open and apparently shortens traveling time.
Although the road is tarred, if you want to veer off to other destinations in the area, a 4x4 may be required.
Related blog posts:
Dumped but not Trashed in Beautiful Mozambique
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About the Author
ALMA VAN AS | ROAMING FOX
Alma is a South African travel blogger and writer. She hopes to inspire you with facts and fables about her adventures, road trips and international travel.
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