Scenic Road Trip Itinerary and Route South Africa
Eastern and Western Cape – South Africa
Garden Route and Karoo Road Trip
After exploring parts of KwaZulu-Natal in March and after being deprived of travel for much of last year, we felt we had to keep the wheels rolling in May while we could before a chance of another lockdown.
Our initial plan was to roam around for a couple of weeks in the Kruger National Park. A safari is always great, isn’t it? As lovely as that sounded, we were yearning to see more of South Africa, our diverse country and its beautiful scenery.
We set our minds on a nostalgic trip to parts of the Eastern and Western Cape. Plettenberg Bay held countless great memories for us as did Storms River but it had been many years ago that we were there. While we were in that area it would be negligent of us not to explore a few other places, wouldn’t it?
Beautiful scenery near Oudtshoorn - golden poplars
Apart from being budget friendly, we still feel more comfortable sleeping in our own bed in the little XCape caravan because of the pandemic. We were concerned that we may be too cool sleeping in our little canvas ‘cave’ because winter was approaching so we planned a bit then packed (hopefully enough warm clothes and bedding), hitched up and hit the road on a journey of travel, adventure and safari.
We gave ourselves 14 days to do the trip although 18 days was the maximum as we had other commitments and had to get back home by then.
The best time of year to see Aloes - we saw thousands!
Our travels took us on the following route:
Johannesburg to Colesberg – overnight stop outside Colesberg
Colesberg to Addo – 2 nights outside the town of Addo
Addo to Tsitsikamma Section – 3 nights at Tsitsikamma
Tsitsikamma to Plettenberg Bay – 2 nights at Plettenberg Bay
Plettenberg Bay to Wilderness – 2 nights in Wilderness
Wilderness to Oudtshoorn – 3 nights in Oudtshoorn
Oudtshoorn to Karoo – 3 nights in Karoo
Karoo to Gariep Dam – overnight stop at Gariep
Gariep to Johannesburg
Google Maps:
Travel, adventure AND safari – way to go!
Itinerary:
1 night camping at Van Zyl’s Vlei B&B, Colesberg.
2 nights camping at Homestead B&B, Addo.
3 nights camping at Storms River Rest Camp in the Tsitsikamma Section – part of the Garden Route National Park.
2 nights camping at Keurbooms Lagoon Caravan Park, Plettenberg Bay.
2 nights camping at Ebb & Flow in the Wilderness – part of the Garden Route National Park.
1 night camping at Kleinplaas Holiday Resort in Oudtshoorn.
2 nights camping at De Hoek Mountain Resort, near Cango Caves, Oudtshoorn.
3 nights camping in Karoo National Park.
1 night at Gariep Forever Resort, Gariep Dam.
First stop Colesberg at Van Zyl’s Vlei B&B
Our first stop was at Van Zyl’s Vlei. We chose it to be away from the busy N1 traffic and truck noises. It was the right decision with safe and peaceful overnight accommodation on a quieter road just 6km outside Colesberg. There are thatched rondawels or family rooms and 6 caravan sites.
Annelie and Deon Döhne are lovely hosts and offer sincere Karoo hospitality. Annelie does the bookings, organizes the kitchen and runs rings around the dinner tables to serve meals. Deon is in charge of the bar and if you catch Deon when he is not serving drinks, he will tell you about his interesting pub filled with historical memorabilia.
If you want dinner you place your order before 6pm and you will be rewarded with a delicious home cooked meal – hearty and warm – delicious after a day of traveling, served in the dining room. We enjoyed it so much that we decided to have a cooked breakfast as well the following morning before we left.
After breakfast we took the route via Cradock towards Addo Elephant National Park.
Homestead campsites
Homestead B&B outside Addo Elephant National Park
We were hoping to spend a few nights in Addo Elephant National Park, but it was fully booked at the campsite apart from one night. We chose to stay at Homestead B&B which is only about 13 kilometres away from the park’s gate.
Not only does the Homestead have 15 caravan sites, but it also has rooms and cottages. Ronnie and Hildelene Beyl have created a peaceful oasis with delightful and quirky little nooks and crannies in the garden for you to explore or rest a while and listen to birds.
The location was ideal as an alternative place to camp other than at Addo Elephant National Park.
Addo Elephant National Park
We spent most of the following day driving around Addo. Having a valid SANPARKS Wildcard for South African residents, the entry was free into the park.
As we entered the park, tongue in cheek I asked the receptionist if we would see elephants. Well, did we? Il have devoted an entire blog just for all the photos and videos I took. Only kidding, I won’t show them all to you, but I certainly will write a full blog covering what we saw.
Suffice to say we saw many elephants, hundreds of kudus with beautiful long horns and thousands of warthogs. Yes, I am exaggerating just a little bit. The vegetation is dense in places and we thought the wildlife might hide in the bushes but we were fortunate to see a variety of animals.
I would recommend at least one day at the park, depending on what you want to see and do. The park is not large, but if you want to do hiking, 4x4 or horse trails you may need more time. The marine eco tours are at the southern section of the park.
After leaving Addo we drove via Paterson towards Port Elizabeth now known as Gqeberha. Apparently it is not a good idea to drive along the R335 directly south to Port Elizabeth.
It seemed like a rather roundabout route but we took the recommendation from those that live in the area. Besides, it gave us a chance to stop at Nanaga Farmstall. Trust me, it is worth it. Renowned for their vetkoek and pies we of course had to sample some! It also has a restaurant and gift shop.
Vetkoek at Nanaga Farmstall
We bypassed Port Elizabeth but that did not stop us from reminiscing about many holidays spent visiting family while driving on familiar roads.
At Jeffreys Bay we stopped for a couple of hours begging for a cup of tea while I chatted with our nephew and Paul attended a Zoom meeting, then continued on to Storms River Mouth.
Storms River Rest Camp in the Tsitsikamma Section of the Garden Route National Park
Our reason for visiting Storms River partially was to evoke memories of snorkeling at the underwater trail in our early 20’s when we were on honeymoon, not necessarily to relive them. I’d learnt my lesson. Besides, the weather was cooler and the water even more so. That day we only spent a few hours at the rest camp. We wanted to explore and experience it for a little longer.
You cannot visit Storms River without walking on the suspension bridge over the mouth of the river. We had heard it was worth exploring the small touristy town of Storms River too.
Would Storms River live up to its name? We know that the wind can be quite vicious and the waves can pound relentlessly against the rocks. I’ll let you know about this and more in another blog!
Plettenberg Bay and Keurbooms Lagoon Caravan Park
After Storms River we moved on to another pensive area. For many years we holidayed in Plettenberg Bay visiting Paul’s parents who lived there for a few years, so we spent much of the time reliving some of those memories and exploring the changes.
Why did we choose Keurbooms Lagoon Caravan Park? Apart from the lovely view looking over the lagoon, the bay and Robberg Peninsula, it held fond memories for us. Paul had camped here since he was two bricks and a tickey/penny high. It was also our honeymoon location where we endured floods or rather a smattering of them.
This time we arrived in the rain and it looked as if we would have a recurrence of the floods, but thankfully the rain cleared although it was cool.
We had dinner one evening at the Ski Boat Club next to NSRI. We have discovered on our travels that Ski boat clubs offer value for money meals. Often one can observe or even meet the locals as well.
Our second day was sunny but with a cool wind blowing. When we drove to Robberg Nature Reserve there were a few picnickers braving the wind which was coming in from the sea. There are a few lovely hikes around the reserve but we were running out of time once again.
Robberg Peninsula and Nature Reserve
Looking for accommodation?
Traveling through scenic mountain passes
Ebb & Flow in the Wilderness, part of the Garden Route National Park
Ebb & Flow South Park wooden cabins
Our next destination was Ebb & Flow in the Wilderness. We chose to stay in the northern camp of the park. The only issue with staying further into the kloof meant that the sun set earlier in winter.
Ebb & Flow North Park camping and rondawels
Ebb & Flow South Park camping
We had heard of a viewpoint where you look down into a valley shaped like a Map of Africa, so we had to see for ourselves. Breath-taking to say the least. Regrettably it was a rather gloomy day but it was still spectacular. You might have to use your imagination with this photo.
Map of Africa if you use your imagination
On the opposite side of the road is another vista, this time over the ocean where one can paraglide. Unfortunately they weren’t operational because the weather wasn’t playing along otherwise we may have been tempted.
Victoria Bay
We spent the day driving towards George then went to see what Victoria Bay looked like. It was probably not the best day to see this tiny cove tucked away near George on the Garden Route. Apart from a few surfers and some houses that would bear the brunt of a storm from the sea, we happened to walk past South Africa’s 2010 Idols winner, Elvis Blue. He had driven down to the bay to see if the waves were worth surfing.
We left him to it and ambled on to George then headed back to the Wilderness via a section of the Seven Passes Road. Strangely though, near Hoekwil we felt a strange tug at the steering wheel taking us towards Hoekwil Country Café where we just HAD to stop and sample their cheesecake.
A couple we had met at the Homestead insisted that we had to stop there. A quirky coffee shop that reminded me of a general dealer from years gone by. They certainly serve the best cheesecake on that corner!
Hoekwil Corner Cafe cheesecake
We never had a chance to do some of the hikes near Ebb & Flow and instead chose to visit friends in Sedgefield. We also calculated how much time we had left for the rest of our trip and needed to move on to Oudtshoorn.
Kleinplaas Holiday Resort in Oudtshoorn
Guess who we bumped into again. After leaving Ebb & Flow we took a slight detour for another coffee break, this time next to the George airport. Remember that famous Idols winner cum surfer? Elvis Blue owns a roadside stall called ElvisBrew.
It obviously wasn’t a great day for surfing – or he had work to do. He sells great coffee and a few other tasty treats so it is worth a stop but of course the highlight of my day was having a selfie taken with this good down to earth soul with a kind heart. Pity about the sun behind us, but it was generous of him to take the time to pose with us. After all, it’s proof, isn’t it? Love his music and singing too!
When we reached Mossel Bay we were tempted to carry on west towards Cape Town, but time was against us. We wanted to visit another friend who has a house that is almost in the mountains. We had never seen it. It has a beautiful view looking towards Mossel Bay.
On the way there it was a delightful surprise seeing mural art on the walls of the houses near Friemersheim. South African artist, Fourie Ackermann spent part of Lockdown to brighten these walls with street art which has now become a tourist attraction at the foot of the Outeniqua Mountains.
We continued on over the Robinson Pass and headed inland. It was a symbolic turning point for us, because we had done more than half of our trip. Although we still had a few things to see and do on our itinerary, we knew our trip would come to an end soon.
On the other side of the pass, the arid Klein Karoo before Oudtshoorn was such a contrast to the greenery of the coast. We arrived at Kleinplaas Holiday Resort where we would camp for the night. It was recommended to us instead of another campsite next to the road just outside of the town.
Upon arrival we were told there was a huge cycle race, the 36ONE MTB Challenge starting two days later. There was one campsite open for two nights but the rest were taken by cyclists. Not that we object to cyclists, but we were not keen to share a campsite with so many people so we decided to move on the next day.
We had dinner at Nostalgie that night, a delightful home cooked meal. We were disappointed though that the special – slow cooked ostrich – was not available. Nevertheless the rest was delicious and we even tempted ourselves with some sweet home bakes to take back with us and enjoy for the rest of our trip. Hertzoggies (jam tartlets topped with a coconut meringue – a firm favourite of mine) and Billionaire’s Shortbread (not millionaires anymore). Yum!
Mind you, I disappointed myself. How could I travel through Oudtshoorn without taking a photo of a single ostrich? Renowned for its ostrich farms the town relies on the industry of this large bird to boost their economy.
We contributed a microscopic amount to their wealth by buying some Ostrich biltong to snack on. A taste that I remember from my childhood.
So where’s the adventure?
De Hoek Mountain Resort near Cango Caves
Our aim was to visit the Cango Caves so we booked a campsite very close to it for two nights. The following morning on our way to De Hoek Mountain Resort we first went to the Cango Caves. On their website we read that it was essential to pre-book a tour but we took the chance to see if there was space. If not, we could return later in the day after we had set up camp.
We had read that they only allowed 25 people on the Heritage Tour due to COVID-19 restrictions so we were hoping we would secure a booking. The Adventure Tour had been suspended until further notice.
We were shocked to see how empty the tiers of parking bays were. It was sad to see such a popular tourist site look like a ghost town. Hardly anyone there.
Our tour was late morning and was the first one for the day with only about 12 people. It was the two of us and 10 cyclists. If it wasn’t for the cycle tour in Oudtshoorn, there would have been very few people there.
I will dedicate a blog to Cango Caves, so keep a lookout for it. I do hope that tourists will soon return to this magnificent South African Heritage.
De Hoek Mountain Lodge
After our tour we drove to De Hoek and set up camp for two nights. It is situated in a beautiful setting below the Swartberg mountain range. My husband had been up the pass as a child and even camped there with his parents.
I always knew my in-laws were adventurous but on this trip I realize how daring they really were. Paul of course wanted to see if he recognized where they camped – wild camping next to the side of the road. How lucky am I am that my husband inherited their spirit of adventure and loves going off the beaten track or on dirt roads?
The following day was filled with excitement as well as beautiful scenery. The Swartberg Pass is worthy of a blog of its own but here’s a taster of what it looked like.
Swartberg Pass from Prince Albert side
Hairpin bend on the Swartberg Mountain Pass
Swartberg Pass built between 1881 and 1888 by Thomas Bain
We ended up at Prince Albert, a town we had both wanted to see but in all honesty, we only saw the main street. We then had a quick lunch snack at Lah-di-dah before we turned around and returned to our campsite.
De Hoek Mountain Resort is surrounded by mountains. A truly peaceful setting, but I would be wary of camping there over weekends as I believe it can get rather noisy. The ablutions were old fashioned but spotless.
More scenery and safari
Karoo National Park outside Beaufort West
After leaving De Hoek we took a short cut along a dirt road leading to Oudemuragie. Once again amazing scenery.
After that we drove through Meiringspoort Pass on our way to Beaufort West. Another scenic pass, jaw-dropping to say the least but far easier to drive than Swartberg. A beautiful tar road with lovely picnic spots, the poort has a long history of floods. We could see evidence of a recent one, perhaps from the rain we had a few days ago.
Meiringspoort
Meiringspoort Pass and Swartberg Pass are two different passes but on the same Swartberg Mountain range.
Leaving the pass you know you are truly in the Great Karoo. The area is vast, stretching over the Eastern, Western and Northern Cape. The region an arid semi-desert.
Arriving at Karoo National Park one would be forgiven (almost) if you thought the park had nothing to offer. A landscape of sand, rock and dry sticks that are meant to be bushes and what looks like dead thorn trees loafing at the bottom of the Nuweberg Escarpment is what you see at first glance.
Your gaze drifts off in contemplation and you begin to appreciate the harsh climate they have to endure. When you observe the detail you will be surprised by what you see.
Karoo National Park is distinctive in its landscape and also deserves a blog of its own. My tip would be to visit the park not for the animals, although we were fortunate to see quite a few. The rugged, arid scenery is outstanding. Don’t forget to look out for that blog.
Gariep Forever Resort at Gariep Dam
Our trip was almost at an end. We spent our last night at the Gariep Forever Resort just north of Colesberg, to break our tedious journey back to Johannesburg. We were allocated a private campsite that had its own ablution as they were doing maintenance at the main campsite.
Private campsites
Our private bathrooms were basic with a little scullery and were adequate but we were told by other campers to have a look at the main ablution facility – marvellous! However the long walk to the bathroom would be a very trying time for someone who suffers from a weak bladder. I would not like to camp there at a busy time in high season either.
Gariep Dam
The joys of camping or caravanning.
On most trips we meet lovely people but this trip was exceptional with likeminded and inspirational people. We shared experiences around the campfire. Everyone offered helpful advice on destinations, activities or even camping tips. There were a few that stood out such as two elderly couples in their eighties, still camping. Very much young at heart.
Another couple had sold all their worldly possessions and bought a caravan four years ago. They have been on the road since and don’t regret it at all.
Gariep Dam wall
Camping blunders
The little Jurgens XCape is a very popular little van. We are proud of our previously loved caravan; in fact I think we love it just as much, if not more. It’s cute and compact but has everything we need. So many people remark on it and are curious to see what is inside. They cannot believe the space we have, even though it is so tiny. But it does make for some awkward moments for me. Let me fill you in.
No sooner have we set up when someone approaches us with a pleading look in their eyes.
‘What a lovely van you have…. It’s so tiny! You set up so quickly. Do you have enough space inside? Where do you sleep?’
Naturally we cannot disappoint them or ignore them and allow them to look inside.
Firstly the bed is not the easiest to make. Bum in the air, wriggling along like a caterpillar while smoothing the duvet, I do what I can. I haven’t perfected a sheet tucked in at a military 45-degree fold on the corners or immaculate ironed look on top. As a result the bed never looks tidy.
While on a road trip like this we tend to do washing every few days. After all, we don’t want a cloud of disgusting air hovering around us. It goes without saying that we stand under the shower every day and wash the travel dust off our skin and hair. To step into clean clothes is even better because I for one don’t want to live like a cave woman even though we do sleep in our little canvas cave.
Sometimes weather does not allow you to do the laundry as often as you like. As a result I have a routine where I wash my not so lacy undies almost on a daily basis and hang them up to air and dry inside our caravan while we explore.
Between my husband and I we forget that my bloomers are hanging like a Christmas decoration inside – so for any of you that might have seen them, I apologize (blushing from the grey roots on my head right down to my toes), but as another camping friend said to me – it’s normal to wear undies – everyone does!
Tips for a road trip:
South Africa’s national roads are in good condition because we pay toll fees, so be sure to add that to your budget. Some of our provincial roads are in a poorer condition, so you need to be more alert and look out for potholes.
Some areas are not worth driving through or at least speak to the people at the resorts or lodges and ask their opinion. Find out if there are any protest actions, which regularly happen. Apart from the delay there is often destruction in the area and you don’t want to find yourself trapped in the middle.
The scenery was worth seeing. Often people comment on what a beautiful country we have and I agree but I had forgotten how impressive. Rugged terrains and theatrical weather or soothing and peaceful surroundings. They are all part of a canvas that makes South Africa unique.
The total distance we covered on our trip was 3600 km. Our biggest expense was naturally our fuel which was close on 50% of our costs.
SANPARKS Wild card:
The SANPARKS Wildcard, renewed annually is really value for money for South African citizens if you use it often. Our card paid for itself over and over again.
We’ve used it in the Kruger National Park for two weeks last year, before Lockdown. By then we had already covered its cost. Thereafter the Kgalagadi for two weeks and for this trip at various places such as Addo, Storms River, Ebb & Flow as well as Karoo National Park.
SANPARKS very kindly extended the Wildcards because they could not be used for many months in 2020.
The International All Parks Cluster is also worthwhile for visitors from other countries if they want to spend a lengthy time touring through South Africa whilst on a road trip and wanting to stay at some of the SANPARKS.
My regrets about the trip?
I wish we could have stayed longer in some places so I could explore more. I am sorry we missed out on Knysna and did not see much of the Wilderness, but it was a rainy day. I am also sorry we could not spend more time in Jeffreys Bay. Of course Mossel Bay was another one that we missed out on. Looks like we might have to do this trip again!
It is interesting how a journey broken up in short stays, time spent driving, time spent setting up camp (although we were quite speedy) chews time but I am grateful to have seen as much as we have. It gives us a glimpse of certain areas that we might want to explore more thoroughly at a later stage.
Related Blog Posts about our Scenic Road Trip
Quick links
Facts about Addo Elephant National Park
Storms River Village Tsitsikamma
Storms River Mouth Rest Camp Garden Route Tsitsikamma
Exploring Cango Caves Oudtshoorn
Wildlife, fossils and extraordinary scenery Karoo National Park
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About the Author
ALMA VAN AS | ROAMING FOX
Alma is a South African travel blogger and writer. She hopes to inspire you with facts and fables about her adventures, road trips and international travel.
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The Best Way to see a country? Take a road trip! Have you ever had that feeling when you hit the open road on your road trip? Freedom. Anticipation. Exhilaration.