What you need to know about Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
Comprehensive guide worth reading before you visit the Kgalagadi
Kalahari - Place of Thirst
Northern Cape - South Africa
Gravel and sand. Rattle-your-fillings-loose roads.
Updated December 2020
Would you visit the Kgalagadi also known as Kalahari, a wild and parched park in Southern Africa? What would you need to know if you decide to visit this transfrontier park? Water holes barely show any signs of water, except that which is pumped from a borehole underground. Settlers had a difficult time surviving there 100 years ago. Even various desert tribes such as the Khoi and Nama struggled to survive in this unforgiving land, although they did a pretty good job.
It’s slightly easier these days to travel through the Kgalagadi, but I’d still advise some planning. Here’s what you need to know.
Gemsbok or South African Oryx, native to arid regions including Kalahari
Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park formerly known as the Kalahari Gemsbok Park is situated in the Northern Cape. It covers a vast area and spans South Africa & Botswana and Namibia.
That way to the Kgalagadi
This blog will consist of some facts and information about the South African side of the park. I have more details about the Botswana side in another blog which will prepare you for off the grid camping.
Inquisitive groundsquirrel
Desert? Not quite.
This sandy semi-arid area is part of the Kalahari Basin. The Okavango River Delta in Botswana and more than half of Namibia is also part of the basin.
Grass, shrubs and deciduous trees have adapted to grow and survive in the Kalahari sand dunes. After rains, the red dunes are covered in grass that can soon shrivel up in the blazing sun if no further rains fall. Technically though, it is not a true desert.
Giraffe resting and snacking on the vegetation
Climate
The climate is harsh in this semi-arid region of the Kalahari, with limited rain. However, it has been known to flood there in recent years. Dramatic dust and thunderstorms can be accompanied by strong winds.
In winter temperatures can drop down to -11°C at night. In summer the contrasting air temperature of 42°C and the blistering sun can raise the surface temperature to a scorching 70°C.
A few years ago we decided that our journey to Kgalagadi from Johannesburg would be impossible to do in one day, as we needed to get to Mata Mata, approximately 120 kilometers in the park, for our first night. We took a detour to Augrabies Falls where we stayed for two nights. We were glad we did, because this gave us an opportunity to see parts of that national park as well as the falls, that were flowing at the time.
Springbuck resting in the shade of the tree
A breakdown of some of the distances one needs to travel.
From Johannesburg to Upington - approximately 770 kilometres which takes about 8 hours.
From Upington to Augrabies - approximately 110 kilometres which takes about 1 and a half hours. We had to drive back to Upington to go to Kgalagadi.
From Upington, going north to the gate of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier National Park - approximately 250 kilometers which takes about 2 and a half hours.
Twee Rivieren Camp is at the gate from South Africa leading into the park.
From Twee Rivieren to Mata Mata – approximately 120 kilometres which takes close to 3 hours without stopping.
For those traveling from Cape Town to Twee Rivieren, it is just over 1000 kilometres and takes approximately 11 hours
Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
Covid 19 Screening procedures at the entrance of Kgalagadi
Accommodation & places to stay
On the South African side there are various places to stay such as traditional rest camps to wilderness camps and Lodges.
Three main rest camps:
There is a combination of family cottages, chalets, camp sites or premium campsites depending on which rest camp you are at.
Certain periods of the year the park can be extremely full, so I would suggest you check availability well in advance for the period you'd like to be there.
A chalet at Twee Rivieren Rest Camp
Alternative accommodation in the Park
Wilderness Camps and luxury lodge
The luxurious !Xaus Lodge provides full board.
Raptor perching on a thorn tree
Some of the wilderness camps are not fenced and in most cases you have to provide your own drinking water, firewood and charcoal. It is preferable to purchase wood from one of the shops in the main camps. We have not stayed at any of the wilderness camps on the South African side but here is a list of them.
No trailers or caravans will be permitted to most if not all of these camps even if they are 4x4 trailers.
These camps do not have a shop or restaurant. Supplies can be bought at the nearest main rest camp before entering the wilderness camps.
Wilderness camps
Bitterpan
Gharagab
Grootkolk
Kalahari Tented Camp
Kieliekrankie
Urikaruus
“Please note:
1) In order to retain the tranquillity and exclusiveness of the wilderness camps we do not exceed 8 people per camp.
2) Children under 12 years are not allowed at these camps:
Kieliekrankie,
Urikaruus,
Gharagab,
Bitterpan,
Grootkolk.
”
If you are wanting to stay in the Botswana section of the park, Tracks4Africa has useful information.
Maps
There should be maps available for sale at the shop at Twee Rivieren, but it may be a good idea to download maps, distances and times it takes to travel, before going.
At reception when you check in you are usually given a photocopy of a map.
Auchterlonie Museum where settlers stayed
Planning and preparation
It is necessary to do your research when visiting Kgalagadi Transfrontier National Park. It can seem quite complex when you study the information. The condition of the roads can vary from one week to the next and will affect your traveling time. If there is anything interesting to see, such as a lion lazing under a tree next to the road, naturally you will want to stop.
You could be enthralled for quite some time and miss the times that the gates close.
Even more important than distance, are the traveling times that are indicated on the SANPARKS website. You may think the distance is short, but there are no tarred roads in the park and some of the traveling will take longer than anticipated. Some of the camps are only accessible by 4 x 4, through thick sand and you may not be allowed to tow a trailer.
Catering
Inside the Kgalagadi you will have to cater for yourselves unless you are staying in the luxury lodge. In certain camps you have to supply your own water and firewood.
The three main rest camps, Twee Rivieren, Mata Mata and Nossob each have a shop where you can buy basic supplies, including water, wood and charcoal.
In my opinion bring much of your own food, although you will be able to top up with limited basic fresh products. There is frozen meat for sale but once again, not large quantities.
At each camp we have been able to buy freshly baked traditional ‘roosterkoek’ by the local staff (a bread like roll which is cooked over the coals) and sometimes a small loaf of fresh home made bread too.
They also sell some mass-produced bread at the shops.
The shops are stocked up on a regular basis, but because they are remote, the quantity and variation of supplies will not be what you can expect from your local supermarket.
There is a restaurant and small café at Twee Rivieren which is close to the main entrance gate and is only suitable if you are staying there or passing through during the day.
Please note the restaurant and cafe is closed during Covid 19 until further notice
Water is a pretentious issue in the Kgalagadi. The water is pumped from boreholes and can be slightly brackish, depending on where the water comes from but further than that there is nothing wrong with it. There is sufficient running water from taps suitable for cooking and washing/showering.
We use the water for brushing teeth but I do not drink it from the tap. When washing it has a soapy feeling but apart from that it is perfectly usable.
If you feel you cannot stomach the taste of the water it is best to bring your own or buy at the shops.
Pro tip: Be sure to bring good facial and body cream as well as conditioner for your hair.
Pro tip: Transporting water is heavy. If you want to save on weight, buy in the park.
Pro tip: The town of Upington has a shopping mall called Kalahari Mall with a Checkers and Spark as well as various shops where you can stock up on most supplies if you do not want to cart it from your home. There is a selection of restaurants to enjoy a meal or snack before heading north.
There are a few butcher shops in Upington as well where you can buy meat.
Window of a fieldstone house at Auchterlonie Museum
Fuel and air for tyres
All three main rest camps, Twee Rivieren, Mata Mata and Nossob have a fuel station providing diesel and petrol. There are compressors at all three camps to inflate your tyres. It is essential to deflate your tyres as per instructions from SANPARKS when driving through the park.
Majority of the time there is enough fuel at the filling stations but on occasion there is a shortage of fuel due to delivery. SANPARKS can limit the amount of fuel you are allowed to buy if necessary. There is no harm in bringing an emergency supply for your vehicle.
If your vehicle breaks down the mechanical staff assist where they can and understand the difficulties of driving in the park. If your repairs are more severe you will need to be towed out at a fee to the nearest suitable town, which is usually Upington, approximately 250 kilometres away and normally takes about 2 and a half hours.
This video might not give you a true idea what the roads are like in the Kgalagadi, but you might get an idea.
Pro Tips about the Kgalagadi from my readers:
Book well in advance, sometimes even 11 months ahead for accommodation in the Kgalagadi. Sometimes at short notice you are lucky to squeeze in on a late booking for a day or two here and there but if you would like more time at the park book in advance.
Wear closed shoes at night for scorpions. If you like looking for these little critters, bring a UV light to be able to spot them.
Laundry dries quickly, so don’t pack too many items - besides it gets dusty very quickly. Remember to pack something for warmth, even in the summer months. You might be surprised by the cool temperatures at times especially in the early morning.
Don’t forget the sunscreen, lip balm and a hat! The sun is harsh in the Kgalagadi.
Keep your fluids up. I am not just talking about beer or wine. Drink plenty of water. It is even a good idea to have some electrolyte sachets/solution at hand because you can perspire excessively and dehydrate very quickly.
Hope the information helps if you plan to visit this Place of Thirst.
In my next blog I’ll tell you about our visit and What you can experience in the Kgalagadi.
If you have any information about the Kgalagadi or Kalahari, you'd like to share, please contact me and I'll add it to this blog.
Reconstruction of kraal and outdoor facilities Auchterlonie Museum
Secretary bird or Sagittarius serpentarius. Love the feathers on the head.
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Related posts:
What you can experience in the Kgalagadi
How to prepare for off the grid camping in Kgalagadi
Itinerary and route to Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
High jinks of a jackal at Rooiputs campsite Kgalagadi Botswana
Why it is worth spending time at Polentswa waterhole
How to be on high alert for predators at Polentswa Kgalagadi
Camping adventures in the wild at Mabuasehube Game Reserve
Is Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park worth a visit?
Disclaimer: I am in no way affiliated with SANPARKS but their information is quite extensive.
Exit at Twee Rivieren
Kgalagadi Blog Series
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After our recent trip to the Kgalagadi I have been reflecting. Is it really worth a visit?