Itinerary and route to Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
Northern Cape – South Africa
Tips to plan your route from Johannesburg to Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
Mabuasehube sign in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
Updated December 2020
The Kalahari is a remote semi-arid wilderness, far from most cities. To get to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park involves a good day’s travel, from any of the major cities in South Africa. Once you are in the park it takes time to drive around between rest camps. I am a firm believer that it is not just the destination, it is also the journey. Hence we decided to split our road trip and stop at a few places on the way to explore.
I’d like to share our route and itinerary with you.
Gravel road next to Nossob river
Distances are approximate.
1. Johannesburg to Witsand Nature Reserve. 2-night stop. 760 kilometres
2. Witsand Nature Reserve to Molopo Kalahari Lodge. Overnight stop. 400 kilometres.
3. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park: Rooiputs, Polentswa, Nossob and Lesholoago – Mabuasehube. 17 nights. 60 kilometres to entrance of park.
4. Mabuasehube Gate, Botswana to Kuruman, via Tshabong. Overnight stop. 330 kilometres
5. Kuruman to Johannesburg. 520 kilometres
Some of the distances may look short but they can take long to drive, depending on the conditions and type of road, as I have explained later in this blog.
Hubby has kindly put together this map for me.
NB: Our average speed limit for the entire trip was 44 km/hr. This shows how slowly we were traveling in the park. On the national roads we could travel on average at 110 km/hr.
Relaxing at Witsand Nature Reserve campsite
Johannesburg to Witsand Nature Reserve.
We thought it would be a great idea to drive a different route and went south west from Johannesburg via the N1 to Parys. We passed through Bothaville, Hoopstad, Hertzogville and Kimberley where we refuelled. We joined the N8 and just short of 80 kilometres past Griekwastad, we turned north to Witsand Nature Reserve.
Most of the roads were in a fair condition apart from the odd pothole. In the region of Hoopstad this changed, as the road had as many holes as a colander. I wouldn’t have minded being in a hovercraft, because we had a good chance of disappearing into one of them. Fortunately we (or rather our vehicle) came out unscathed.
Just north of Kimberley we travelled on a good gravel road that was in a far better condition; almost like a highway. I loved the scenery and happened to catch a fleeting glimpse of a meerkat (suricate) standing erect on an ant heap as we whizzed past.
The road from the N8 to Witsand was a gravel road and apart from a small stretch was in good condition.
Roaring sands at Witsand - Legend has it the dunes only roar in the months spelled with an “R”.
Chalet at Witsand
Witsand Nature Reserve Chalet
Witsand Nature Reserve.
We camped two nights at Witsand Nature Reserve, remote and quiet with unexpected white and red sand dunes. The area is known as the Green Kalahari. I would recommend a short stay. If you are there in the dry season you may even hear the sands roar. Unfortunately we didn’t as the sands were still damp from rain a few weeks before.
There are self-catering bungalows and chalets as well as ten campsites with power, water and a place to make a fire. The ablution facilities were clean with hot water. There is no fuel and no restaurant at Witsand.
Mountains near Witsand Nature Reserve
Roaring sands of Witsand
Sociable weaver’s nest near Witsand
Witsand Nature Reserve to Molopo Kalahari Lodge, Ashkam.
We left Witsand on a different gravel road, then joined a tar road near Upington. Whilst in Upington, we stocked up at the Kalahari Mall. We continued on tar to Molopo Kalahari Lodge, an overnight camping stop before we entered the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park at Twee Rivieren.
Molopo Kalahari Lodge near Ashkam
Campsite Molopo Kalahari Lodge
Molopo Kalahari Lodge.
Molopo Kalahari Lodge is just outside Ashkam, 200 km north of Upington and 60 km from Twee Rivieren, the entrance gate to Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. It is a pleasant campsite with fully serviced chalets, rondavels and tented chalets.
The camping facilities have electricity, with shade to sit under and semi-private ablution facilities. There is fuel available as well as a lovely restaurant with interesting decor. We ate a delicious dinner at the restaurant.
Although their website says campers are given a loaf of bread in the evening for breakfast the next morning, we did not get one, but instead were offered complimentary coffee, rusks and muffins. You could have a cooked breakfast, at extra cost, but we decided against it as we wanted to get to the park.
We found the lodge slightly noisy in the evening because of local residents living a few kilometres away, but overall the stay was pleasant.
A-frames at Botswana campsites in Kgalagadi
Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
Rooiputs, Polentswa, Nossob and Lesholoago - Mabuasehube
The Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park can be quite confusing. Twee Rivieren is the entrance point into the park from South Africa. Being a Transfrontier park you can spend time on the South African side as well as the Botswana side. There are two main roads going north to northwest – one to Mata Mata and one to Nossob. Naturally there are other interlinking roads as well. There are traditional rest camps, wilderness camps and private concessions that are run by SANPARKS, DWNP Botswana and Ta Shebube Lodges.
Rooiputs, Polentswa and the campsites in the Mabuasehube area where we were going are run by Department of Wildlife and National Parks, Botswana.
Gravel road near Polentswa
Road to pan near Polentswa
The Nossob river separates the two countries although majority of the time the riverbed is dry. Rooiputs is in the Botswana area but a stone’s throw away from the river and not far from Twee Rivieren (25 km). Polentswa is also in Botswana, 60 km north of Nossob and just east of the river.
You do not need a passport to camp there if you enter and exit at the Twee Rivieren Gate. In the Mabuasehube area which is in the far eastern side of the park in Botswana, there are a few salt pans such as Lesholoago, Khiding, Mabuasehube, Monamodi and Mapayatutlwa which each have campsites.
If you camp there and exit at the Mabuasehube Gate you will need to go through the usual border procedures. Lonely Planet has detailed information about this procedure.
A-frame at one of the pans in the Mabuasehube area
We entered at Twee Rivieren where we checked in at the South African counter because we would be spending two nights at Nossob. We then proceeded to the Botswana counter to process our documents, stamp our passports and vehicle papers as we would be leaving the park at the Mabuasehube Gate in Botswana.
If you intend staying on the South African side you only check in at the South African counter.
Shower cubicles with bucket shower, but bring your own water
Rooiputs
From Twee Rivieren we drove to Rooiputs Campsite 2 where we camped for three nights.
The Botswana campsites usually consist of a large open area with an A-frame to provide limited shade. Most of these campsites have a pit toilet, a shower cubicle and cold water but not all of them do. In some cases you share the facilities (for what they are) with the campsite closest to you. It is advisable to drive to those campsites if they are more than a hundred meters apart, not to be lazy but in case of predators.
We shared a shower and pit toilet with campsite 1 and we had water.
Campsite with shower, pit toilet and water - Lesholoago
Polentswa
We drove from Rooiputs to Dikbaardskolk picnic spot for a quick late breakfast/early lunch stop then carried on to Nossob where we refuelled before continuing to Polentswa. Rooiputs to Polentswa is approximately a 4-hour drive. The speed limit in the park is 50 km/h. We camped at campsite 3 at Polentswa for 7 nights.
NB: Please note that Polentswa has NO WATER. Please supply your own.
In general the roads in the park can be extremely corrugated. On occasion, although short lived, it felt like we were making virgin tracks on a freeway, because the road had just been graded. It is good to see they are making an effort to maintain the roads, but it is difficult to keep up with the quick regression of the roads.
When driving on the South African side a 4x4 vehicle is not necessary, however the roads are not necessarily sedan friendly and the height of the embankment on the sides of the road makes it difficult to see game.
Bucket shower on a pulley system
Campsites at Nossob Rest Camp
Fuel stop at Nossob
Nossob
After Polentswa we camped at Nossob Rest Camp for 2 nights. This was a maintenance and pamper session as the rest camp has excellent facilities. Although we couldn’t complain about the daily showers we had, it was good to sort ourselves out for the last week of our travels. We also caught up on laundry.
There is fuel available at Twee Rivieren and Nossob but not at any other parts of the park. Botswana side of the park has no fuel and the nearest place I know of is Tshabong, a fair distance away, outside the park. (You would pay with Pula) I would carry reserve fuel in case there is an issue.
It is a good idea to have cash (Rand) available, although we could use our credit cards for fuel and shopping. There are shops at Nossob and Twee Rivieren as well, with quite impressive basic stock for such a remote area but I wouldn’t bank on doing all your shopping for your trip there. Prepare and plan ahead of your visit.
Nossob to Bosobogolo Pan
Burnt vehicle on Nossob to Bosobogolo road
Lesholoago, Mabuasehube, Botswana
We left Nossob as the gate opened at 7am and drove the Bosobogolo dual direction dune road between Nossob and Bosobogolo Pan. We knew it would be a long and arduous day ‘at the office’ and it was. We arrived at Lesholoago at approximately 4pm with only a short 15-minute stop for a picnic lunch. The distance is only about 200 km but can take you more than 9 hours.
The dunes weren’t overly problematic, but they were deceptive. On two occasions, near the beginning of the trail, we needed a second attempt to drive over them. On the first steep dune we got stuck in the soft sand as we weren’t sure if we should continue left or right.
We made sure the sand was clear from our tyres, reversed and deflated our tyres even more than we already had, before our next attempt. Paul instructed me to follow him on foot with the spade and drove off. As we were towing a trailer it was imperative that he kept the momentum going.
Our friends, Alan & Sue who were behind us, picked me up with a stern warning: - Didn’t you notice the predator footprints?! Stay with your vehicle! Thankfully they gave me a lift, cleared the dune easily in their vehicle and returned me to my husband safely. I was grateful that I didn’t have to run up the sand dune, armed with a mere spade to give a lion a thump on the nose.
Pro tip: As stipulated in the rules and regulations at Kgalagadi, a 4x4 is required for the sand roads. The sand is soft and the middle island between two deep ruts is often quite high and can result in your jockey wheel ‘ploughing’. The same would happen to your vehicle if you do not have enough clearance.
It is a good idea to have experience in sand driving, especially if you are towing. It is also a necessity to deflate tyres by at least a third of the original pressure. It makes the world of difference. Thankfully we didn’t have a head on collision at the top of the dunes with any oncoming traffic! That would have been a disaster. We saw no other vehicles throughout the day, until we reached the campsites.
We have a portable air compressor in our vehicle to inflate tyres if necessary.
Red sand road
The dunes can chew you up and spit you out
Mabuasehube Area
Around the pans at Lesholoago, Khiding, Mabuasehube, Monamodi and Mapayatutlwa the roads vary from sand to gravel and stone.
We camped for five nights at Lesholoago (also spelt Losoloago) campsite 2 which has a water hole.
Travel for Wildlife has a comprehensive blog about the facilities at the campsites in the Mabuasehube Area. However, they can differ from visit to visit when different boreholes run dry.
We had water at campsite 2, but the boreholes have been known to run dry.
A mix of sand and gravel
Stony road at Mabua pans
Beautiful long grass on edge of road near Bosobogolo
Mabuasehube Gate, Botswana to Kuruman in South Africa, via Tshabong and McCarthy’s Rest Border Post
As you leave Mabuasehube Gate you drive onto ‘The Kalahari Highway’, where you can travel north, deeper into Botswana and then on to Namibia. Alternatively you can drive south for approximately 120 kilometres to Tshabong and then to McCarthy’s Rest, into South Africa.
Mabua to Tshabong - Kalahari highway?
‘The Kalahari Highway’ as we nicknamed it, is wide enough in places for about six vehicles abreast – except it is not tarmac – it is soft, shifting, deep sand. Once again a long stretch where you pick two tracks (or deep ruts) and stick to them as the middle island is quite high in places. It is not worth changing tracks. This section takes about two hours.
Potholes on the road to Tshabong
Inflating tyres with a portable air compressor
We only saw one motor vehicle drive towards us, as well as a donkey cart. After that time you reach a gravel road. Look out for potholes as we presume animals have dug the holes into the hard, salty crust.
We filled up with fuel on the outskirts of Tshabong at an Engen garage. Many of the garages at Tshabong are no longer operational.
The road to McCarthy’s Rest Border Post in Tshabong is not well signposted and looks quite insignificant.
Gravel road crossing the Kuruman river near Hotazel. The river bed is dry except when there are flash floods
From McCarthy’s Rest Border Post we drove on a long, rough gravel road till just outside Hotazel where we joined the tar. The road was busy from Hotazel with trucks from the mines and other drivers wanting to overtake precariously.
We camped overnight at Red Sands Country Lodge which is approximately 10 kilometres west of Kuruman.
Pro tip:
If you are traveling from Mabuasehube, it may be worth stopping over somewhere halfway between Mabuasehube and Kuruman as the drive can be quite tiring. Majority of it is sand or gravel and the continuous vibration can be tiring on the driver’s hands and arms.
Red Sands campsites with power, private barbeque and scullery under cover
Red Sands Country Lodge
Red Sands is a pleasant campsite with self-catering chalets, bungalows and camp sites. It has a restaurant and is a good overnight stop with excellent facilities.
We ate at the restaurant and found the food tasty and appealing.
Red Sands campsite with communal ablutions
Kuruman to Johannesburg
We filled up with fuel at Kuruman but chose to use one of the newer filling stations on the outskirts of the town as there have been incidents of theft in the centre of town.
We continued to Vryburg, Delareyville, Krugersdorp and Johannesburg.
Warning: Apparently crime is rife in some of the small towns such as Kuruman and Vryburg. Although we never had any issues, we have heard of many people that have been caught unawares. Be vigilant and lock car doors. Do not have valuables on display.
If possible drive through the side roads and avoid the main roads in the towns especially where pedestrians are loitering around areas. Be on the lookout for potholes & drivers doing the unexpected, like driving towards you in the wrong direction in your lane.
There are some pros and cons about travel in South Africa and I have a few safety tips for you here.
Out of interest:
Our average speed in the park was just below 30 km p/h.
Conclusion:
It takes time to travel to the Kgalagadi and inside the park, where your vehicle can and will suffer from the corrugations. Take tools with you as nuts and bolts rattle loose. Not sure what you will do when you lose your fillings and false teeth…
You will come back covered in sand and dust, but then one thing is for certain about the Kalahari, you can shake the sand from your shoes, but it will never leave your soul.
Route Updates from our December 2020 Trip to the Kgalagadi
We have recently returned from a trip to the Kgalagadi in November 2020. We took the route from Johannesburg on the N14 via Coligny, Sannieshof, Delareyville, Vryburg to Kuruman where we stopped for the night. The following morning we continued on the N14 via Kathu, Olifantshoek and Upington to Askham for another overnight stop. The following day we continued into the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. There are no cities along the route, only small towns.
Although our little XCape caravan tows like a dream, we prefer to travel shorter distances of about 400 - 600 km if possible or 4 to 6 hours of travel time. That way we do not get to our destination totally exhausted. We did that in the days when we were somewhat younger.
We returned to an old favourite and tried out a new campsite on route which I will tell you about a little later. We also found a few coffee shops and ‘padstalle’ (road stalls if you translate directly – but I would love a beautiful English word for it if someone can enlighten me) along the way.
Our itinerary at the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park consisted of two nights at Twee Rivieren Rest Camp, 6 nights at Mata Mata, 6 nights at Nossob Rest Camp and 1 night at Twee Rivieren Rest Camp before we made our way home. We stayed at all the places in our little home on wheels, an off-road caravan.
Before I get to the accommodation suggestions, I have to reiterate as I have mentioned earlier in this blog, while traveling through small towns please be alert, lock your vehicle doors and don’t have valuables on display, especially cell phones, cameras and important documents such as passports, wallets etc.
There is crime in these settlements especially if you are traveling on certain days, such as the busy times at the end of the week after payday or on a Saturday morning. Majority of the inhabitants are going about their daily lives and will not harm you. Unfortunately there always is a handful of criminals that make it unpleasant for others. They blend in with the crowds and are opportunistic.
Fortunately nothing happened to us, but regrettably we have heard of more than two accounts just on this trip. Kuruman and Vryburg seem to be the towns that have the issues but be vigilant everywhere.
Friends of ours drove through Kuruman and fortunately they were alert and noticed an individual that was targeting them. They had their doors locked, but two men tried to open both back doors of their vehicle at one of the stop streets or traffic lights while they were stationary. Thankfully the chancers were unsuccessful and therefore could not grab what was on their back seats.
Another couple drove through one of the towns and I speak under correction, but I think they said it was Vryburg – if not, it would be Kuruman. The criminals managed to open one of their back doors and grabbed a bag off the seat that had some snacks and cold drinks in. Next to that was their camera equipment which was fortunately untouched because they drove away rapidly.
Other accommodation on route to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
Onto a lighter note, let me recommend some more places to stop overnight on the way to the Kalahari. Some we have stayed at and others have been recommended to us by our friends that have had pleasant experiences.
De Oude Huize
De Oude Huize at Kameel, a slight detour off the route between the small towns of Vryburg and Stella have a two-bedroom self-catering cottage which used to be the Stationmaster House in 1945. With true South African hospitality Hennie and Sandra will accommodate you and make you feel welcome. Read their blog to find out more about them and their stoep stories.
Red Sands Country Lodge
Red Sands on the western side of Kuruman, is about 10 km out of town. We camped there twice on this trip. They have thatch rondawels, self-catering chalets as well as camp sites, some with their own ablutions. There is a restaurant on site which serves delicious meals.
Oranjerus Resort
Oranjerus Resort is just south of Upington. There is camping, permanent tents and a variety of chalets. There is also a restaurant on site.
Ruimland Gastehuise/Guesthouse
Ruimland Guesthouse has 5 self-catering units on a working farm 12 km from the centre of Upington.
Kalahari Camelthorn Caravan Park & Guesthouse
Kalahari Camelthorn Caravan Park & Guesthouse is a beautiful green oasis in the tiny town of Askham. Unfortunately they don’t have a website although you will find some details on the internet.
Telephone number: Rene +27 82 330 6762
Email: kalaharicamelthorn@gmail.com
Campsites at Kalahari Camelthorn
Ablution on either side and scullery in centre - Kalahari Camelthorn
Kalahari Camelthorn
Kgalagadi Lodge
Kgalagadi Lodge is 5 km from the entrance of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park at Twee Rivieren. This is an ideal place to stay if you could not find accommodation inside the park. They have a variety of chalets as well as campsites each with their own ablution. There is also a restaurant and shop on site.
Small chalet
Self catering chalet
Campsites
Camp site with own ablution and sitting area
Coffee shops and roadside stalls
South Africans love their coffee shops and roadside stalls when on a road trip. If you would like to break your journey and stretch your legs or have a snack, you can try these. It is quite a tradition. Many of them sell biscuits, rusks, jams and other homemade goodies too to either take on your trip or take home with you.
Do take note though, some of these places can be closed occasionally if out of season or possibly even on a Sunday.
Die Rooi Kar Padstal
Die Rooi Kar Padstal (Red Car Roadside stall) is close to Olifantshoek on the road to Upington. Because it wasn’t a busy time for them they did not have a menu but they were more than happy to make us a cup of tea and a toasted sandwich.
Telephone number: +27 73 562 1253
Kontrei Coffeeshop
The Kontrei Coffeeshop in Sannieshof is another delightful place to stop for a quick snack and something to drink. You can browse through their gallery while you are there.
Kontrei Coffee Shop Sannieshof
Diamond T Coffee Shop
Diamond T is a delightful coffee shop in Askham. I can highly recommend their milk tart, lemon meringue and milkshakes.
Diamond T with a view over the dunes
Milktart
I would love any other places you could highly recommend either to stay at or a quick stop over for a bite to eat on the way to the Kgalagadi so I can add them to this list.
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Related posts:
What you need to know about Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
What you can experience in the Kgalagadi
How to prepare for off the grid camping in Kgalagadi
High jinks of a jackal at Rooiputs campsite Kgalagadi Botswana
Why it is worth spending time at Polentswa waterhole
How to be on high alert for predators at Polentswa Kgalagadi
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About the Author
ALMA VAN AS | ROAMING FOX
Alma is a South African travel blogger and writer. She hopes to inspire you with facts and fables about her adventures, road trips and international travel.
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After our recent trip to the Kgalagadi I have been reflecting. Is it really worth a visit?